CB-6000-MR Metal Roof Exit Kit

The exit kit required is dependent of the roof material. For shingled roofs you would use the shingled roof exit kit CB-6001-SR. For almost all other roofs you should go with the metal roof exit kit CB-6000-MR. The boots offered in the kits are good for roofs up to 45 degrees. Roofs that are steeper than 45 degrees will need to acquire the same boot but in a larger diameter to be able to accommodate the steeper pitch.

The Insulated Pipe is to keep the surface temperature down and to keep the flue gasses from cooling quickly. This will offer a better performing stove and less creosote buildup.

Yes it does. The 5” pipe does not carry any gas. It is solely an insulator.

They come with the following:

1. 1 x 5" CB-5029-SS 5" Stainless Steel Ceiling Trim Plate
2. 1 x CB-3027-SS Support Brackets
3. 1 x Metal Roof Flashing Boot 
4. 1 x CB-5028-SS Stainless Steel Cap
5. 1 x CB-3050-SS 3" to 5" Adaptor
6. 1 x CB-5024-SS 5" Stainless Steel Insulated Pipe, 24" Long  or  2 x CB-5012-SS 5" Stainless Steel Insulated Pipes, 12" Long

We supply the following hardware with our exit kits:

• The screws to fix the cap to the 5” pipe.
• The screws to fix the mounting bracket to the 5” pipe
• The screws to join 5” pipes together if you have multiple.
• The screws to fix the 3”-5” adapter to the 5” pipe.

We do NOT supply the following hardware with our exit kits:

• 4 screws to fix the support brackets to the roof.
• The screws needed to fix the boot to the roof.
• The 8 screws required to secure the trim plate in place.

You need enough 3” pipe to go from the top of the stove to one foot above the highest point of the roof.

You need enough 5” pipe to go from at least 2” below your ceiling to one foot above the highest point of the roof. And the 5” pipe should not go closer than 30” to the stove.

They get mounted to the roof and fixed to the 5” Insulated Pipe and they get covered by the boot.

The trim plate is to hide the gap between the 5” pipe and the 7” hole.

It simply covers the gap between the 5” Insulated Pipe and 3” Double Wall Flue Pipe visible from the inside. It holds no weight and gets fixed to the 5” Insulated Pipe.

It is, no spark should be able to pass through a space that is less than ½”

They get mounted to the roof and fixed to the 5” Insulated Pipe. They get covered by the boot

You do not. A damper will only slow the draft, the stove already has controls on it to control the draft.

We do not suggest to do so. This is for several reasons:

You will have two elbows, creating turbulence, slowing the draft which will reduce the efficiency of the stove.

The slower draft will create more creosote buildup.

You will have more of your flue pipe outside which will cool the pipe quicker and this will also reduce the draft and create more creosote.

For these reasons we do not have elbows for our pipe, nor do we know any that will work with our pipe. A straight run up and out the roof is the best practice for a properly functioning stove.

It is not suggest. We do not offer elbows, nor are we aware of any that work with our pipe. For a properly functioning stove we suggest to run the pipe straight up and out with no elbows.

We do not suggest to do so. If a single wall pipe is used it will most likely not connect correctly. And it will not allow the stove to function as it should because it will allow the flue gases to cool excessively.